I recently purchased a leftover ’07 F1000. Can you tell me the most effective way to eliminate or at least reduce it’s “pushing” characteristic?
I have read a lot of negative comments concerning this obvious problem that I really did not know about prior to my purchase. It also is the hardest sled to pull over I have encountered in twenty years of snomobiling.
Looking forward to your response.
Thanks for your email!
I would drill new holes in the front limiter straps and pull the front arm up one full increment (as is the current hole spacing).
Then ditch the stock dual carbides and install a set of Stud Boy Shaper bars. The dual skags are a big part of the problem.
Increase the preload on the front IFS shocks (if they are springs) or increase the air pressure if you have Fox Floats to increase weight on the front end.
Alternately, we have found Snow Trackers added to the skis or USI skis with shaper bars to be very effective.
There’s one sure way to fix the starting issue – electric start! I’m not trying to be smart, it is the answer.
Thanks for the info and two more questions if I could. I ditched the stock carbides and put on Dooly’s with six inch carbides right from the start. Should I can those in favor of the Stud Boy Shapers you speak of?
Also, I have Fox Floats. Can you tell me the max and minimum air pressure they can properly operate at?
Thanks again for the valuable info Mark, and yes, electric start is next!
Bill Bjorkman, Jr
Yes, Duallies are good but I would use a single blade carbide as the dual blade units from SB and Woodies “numb” initial turn-in response and that is exactly what we’re trying not to do.
I cannot tell what pressure will work for your weight but here’s how to do it. YOU MUST elevate the front of the sled before checking the Float pressure or making changes – if the sled is on the ground it’s all meaningless.
Note your baseline PSI and go up in ten PSI increments and see what you get. There’s a point where the sled will ride too stiff but it won’t push – that’s no good – go back a little from that and see if you can maintain ride compliance and get the push completely out.
Pulling the front arm in first will put more weight on the skis immediately so I would recommend you do this first. However, when you pull the limiter up you cause the floating front arm action to be limited and you’ll sense a slight reduction in skid frame ride compliance. Doh!
Here’s the deal – everything we’ve done to make F’s corner is a trade-off to something else – the good news is you can make them corner and reduce the understeer.