Question:

Dear Motorhead:

Joe

Reply:

Thanks for your email!

There are E-TEC 600’s running around with big miles on them right now. I would suggest any snowmobile engine with 10,000 miles on it – 4-stroke or 2-stroke – will require “freshening”.

I’ve heard of both 2 and 4-stroke motors clearing the 10,000 mile mark however, my feeling is this – the rest of the sled will need a complete going over – re-bearing, all mechanical bits refreshed and then the drive-line clutches, chaincase etc.

The engine at this point might be running however, a normal life cycle of a snowmobile – in my opinion – from a mileage perspective – not a time perspective – is about 12,000 miles or around 20,000 klicks. That’s not to say you can’t go further, but at what cost versus trading in the unit and buying a new one?

The math of rebuilding or literally riding a sled to the 10,000 mile mark doesn’t square when you can deal the sled at the 5-6 thousand mile mark and invest less than riding it all the way to the level 10 and then paying to rebuild the entire sled.

I know, you only asked if an E-TEC will clear 10 thousand miles. Yes, I believe with proper maintenance it will.

Should you buy a Renny 137 E-TEC? If you have a good dealer then the sled will impress. Should you buy a new Rush? Yes, if you have a good dealer the sled will impress.

I can’t make this decision for you – you need to research and RIDE both to determine which is right for you. Again, the dealer can make all the difference.

Good Luck!

Motorhead Mark

Question:

Dear Motorhead,

Guy

Reply:

Thanks for your email!

Here’s the deal with bleeding brakes – it is a very time consuming, finicky job and if you haven’t done it before it is not as easy as it seems – and you are proving the point with your results.

You absolutely must be deliberate in:

1) Maintaining the reservoirs level at all times when bleeding or you’ll just suck in more air. An extra set of hands here makes all the difference.

2)The regimen you establish must be strict and not deviated from one tiny bit or it all goes sideways. Pump the lever until you feel a little something then HOLD IT IN – DO NOT RELEASE while turning the bleeder valve open and then re-tightening the bleeder valve without releasing the lever – if you release the lever you must absolutely start over again!

3) Each time you get a little more “feel” or brake you must give it all back by letting the lever go fully against the handlebar when you release the bleeder valve. DO NOT LET THE LEVER OUT WITH THE BLEEDER OPEN!!

4) You’ll probably need to go through about two reservoirs full of fluid for a good, solid bleed. Again, do not let the reservoir get lower than half full or it will suck air and you get to start all over again.

That’s how you do it and you’ve got to do it again to get your brakes back. What you’ve described is classic air-in-the-lines lever feel.

You can do it!

Motorhead Mark

Question:

Dear Motorhead:

JD

Reply:

Thanks for your email!

The Pro-R 600 has a great running Clean-Fire injected mill. Will V-Force improve the engine? I have had no input from other readers about the use of them on this engine.

V-Force reeds have been a reliable and consistent performing power enhancer for many years. I would expect they would provide – at the very least – an improvement in bottom end power and throttle response.

Hope this helps,

Mark